Some frequently asked questions about TP-Link smart plug and Kasa APP
For basic/advanced settings of Smart Plug/Switch, please refer to following FAQs:
How to connect my TP-LINK Smart Plug to my home network via Kasa?
How to connect my TP-LINK Smart Switch to my home network via Kasa?
Advanced settings introduction of TP-LINK Smart Plug in Kasa APP.
How to update firmware of Smart Devices in Kasa App?
Q: Can I plug in a power strip to the smart plug?
A: Yes, you can plug a power strip into a TP-Link Smart Plug and turn it on/off via the Kasa app or voice command with Amazon Echo/Google Assistant. The total draw and wattage of devices plugged into the power strip should be within the rated amperage and wattage of the Smart Plug.
Q: Can the Smart Plug/Switch control multiple lights?
A: Yes, they can as long as the total current draw and wattage does not exceed the rated amperage and wattage of the Smart Plug/Switch.
Q: Does the Smart Plug block both plugs on the socket panel?
A: Yes it is possible, but it depends on the model of smart plug you are using. If outlet access is a concern we recomend using the HS103, HS105 or HS107.
Q: Can I use Smart Plug/Switch on my TV so that Alexa/Google Assistant/Home Kit can turn on/off the TV with voice?
A: No, most TVs go into standby mode when you turn them off. Since the smart plug shuts off all power once the TV is turned off it would need to be manually turned on after power is restored.
Q: Can TP-Link Smart Plug/Switch work with Apple Home Kit?
A: No, our smart devices doesn’t support Apple Home Kit, however we are working on compatiblity and hope to have it finished soon.
Q: Can multiple plugs/switches work with Amazon echo? If so, do I need to use separate names for each smart plug?
A: Yes. While you’re setting them up in the KASA app, you will get the opportunity to set a custom name and icon for each smart device. When you pair them to Alexa, you also can divide the smart plugs into group to control them.
For example, you have two plugs, you could name one "Table lamp" and the other one "tree lamp”. Then group them to be "living room lamps." Then you can ask Alexa to operate then separately or both.
Q: Can I ask Alexa "turn off power after 30 minutes" since KASA app has timer?
A: No, Alexa doesn’t support KASA’s timer functions.
Q: Do I need to buy Smart bulbs to be able to control lights with Alexa using your smart plug/switch?
A: No smart bulbs are not needed. The switch will control whatever is on the circuit that it's installed on, and Alexa will provide voice control for that device.
Q: Is HS200/HS210KIT a dimmer?
A: No, HS200/HS210KIT does not have dimmer feature. HS220 is a dimmer switch but it’s only two-way.
Q: Can I manually turn on/off the lamp/other devices via the switch on the HS200?
A: Yes, when the HS200 is connected to the electrical system properly, you will be able to control the lamp/other devices in the system manually.
Q: Can HS200 work at two wires circuit?
A: No, you will need at least three wires: Live, Load, and Neutral for the HS200 to work.
Q: Can the HS200 work on two-pole switch as long as the other switch is always on?
A: Possibly, but only after some circuit modification. We don’t recommend you to do this, and can’t provide technical support for this kind of application. Should you want to proceed, we strongly suggest you hire a professional electrician to install it.
Q: Can the HS200 switch be used in a three-way switch light combination (two switches controlling one light)?
A: It is possible, but only after some circuit modification. We don’t recommend you to do this, and can’t provide technical support for this kind of application. We offer the HS210 Kit for a 3-way circuit and recommend this be used instead.
Q: Can I use HS210 KIT with ordinary three-way switch?
A: Yes, but you have to connect only one HS210 to Line wire and the ordinary three-way switch to Load wire.
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What I do not understand is why TP-Link support have ignored the "issue" of wi-fi devices dropping of the network.
- TP-Link make Wireless Routers and Wireless Access Points.
- TP-Link know that the firmware in these devices has a fixed size table to keep track of the devices currently connected by wi-fi (this is NOT the DHCP table which includes wired devices).
- TP-Link know that in residental-grade models the size of the table is less than commercial-grade models; and that (particularly in older 2.4GHz-only models) the table allowed only 15 devices. In the old days when 2.4GHz was used for everything this seemed a reasonable way to share the bandwidth ... but now we have a lot of IoT devices on 2.4GHz using very little bandwidth that we want to stay online.
- TP-Link know that when a device asks to connect to wi-fi and there is no free slot, it will be allocated the slot of the device which has not communicated for the longest time (guessing it is no longer turned on). The device whose slot that was is now unable to be reached from the LAN, and (when it realises) will ask to connect to wi-fi (thus moving the problem to a different device).
Not firmware update for your IoT devices can fix a problem at the Wi-fi Access Point.
For all you customers, the answer is either
- upgrade to a newer commercial-grade router which does support more concurrent wi-fi-connected devices (though most are still limited to 32 devices on wi-fi), or
- add another Wireless Access Point (or wi-fi Router with DHCP turned off) and reposition them to split the load and improve signal strength, or
- upgrade to a fancy new "mesh" system (which is basically just the last option with a high price tag).
Yes