The DHCP is not spam, it's a normal protocol. If you want to save bandwidth, consider use of static IPs.
Also always use static IPs for tests even if you plan to use DHCP later).

So you are using this setup for your TL-WA7210:





WAN is wireless interface in client (station) mode connecting to an AP (WISP).

LAN is wireless and wired interface bridged, wireless being used in AP (master) mode.

Make sure the LAN uses another IP range then what's used on the WAN side. This are two separate networks, each with an own IP range.

For correct settings in this mode, see chapter 5 of the User's Guide available from here (look for "TL-WA7210N_V2_UG", direct links to the UG are forbidden by TP-Link): http://www.tp-link.com/us/download/TL-WA7210N.html

What is it what did confuse you?

With AP Client Router mode you have to networks: the WAN (wireless adapter of TL-WA7210 in client mode and also in AP mode) and the LAN (the port of the WA7210 on the PoE adapter). The WAN of the WA7210 is connected to the WISP station (your remote AP). The WA7210 works simultaneously as a client, an AP and a router.

Setup is straightforward in this operation mode. First connect to the remote AP (called WISP from now on). Do a survey, select the SSID, enter the WPA2 key and wait until the WA7210 connects. Meanwhile, enjoy the LED disco lights on the back of the WA7210.

While you're at it, disable local WiFi access, it is neither needed nor useful if you use a TL-ANT2424B, which has a very small beam width of 10° (H) / 14° (E), not suitable to wirelessly connect local client devices.

This are the wireless settings:






Check for the IP assigned by the WISP AP to your WA7210, it's assigned dynamically if you use the default settings. Let's see if we can connect:






Yes, we can. Ups, sorry, wrong slogan, I meant: Yes, it works. :cool:


Check for signal strength of the link - here it's the built-in antenna and a consumer AP on the remote side (I'm too lazy to setup a TL-ANT2424B on Sunday):






Now set an IP for the WA7210 LAN. Default should be o.k. if the WISP uses another IP range:






Next, configure DHCP or use default settings if they fit for you. Address Lease Time determines the interval you should expect "DHCP SPAM". ;)






DHCP is somewhat verbose, let's see wether it works:






Perform a speed test to check for the link quality:






Rated A+, no wonder from one room to another one nearby, despite two walls in between.

No connection drops, link is up for an hour now and I'm posting this while still being connected through the wireless link.

Now the network topology of AP Client Router mode should be clear.
You only need to ensure that you have equally powered antennas on both sides of the link to avoid connection drops.

Also, for TL-ANT2424B ensure they are exactly aligned (this can be the most challenging part of such a setup).

Dodge Ram wrote

the distance is about 50m but it has obstacles:/

What obstacles, which material?

For directional links you need free line of sight to achieve best results. I don't want to keep you back from playing with a TL-ANT2424B, but this is not the right antenna for a distance of just 50m. It's an antenna for long-range links in the kilometer range.

Did you take into account that it could be increased use of 2.4 GHz equipment by your neighbors what causes a bad signal in recent times?

Better get two CPE510 for 50m if the TL-W7210 doesn't perform well anymore. The CPE510 uses 5 GHz in the outdoor band, which is completely separated by indoor devices using 5 GHz. But as noted above: the devices need to have a free line of sight.

Glad it works for you! Have fun! And remember to isolate the type N connector with self-amalgamating tape to protect against water/humidity. :)