@Maison_Berri 

I just recently got this working but it won't work with only a version 2 kit. 
 

You need to install the V2 KIT on the main (line side) and satellite (load side).  Then you need to find a V1 KIT (I found one on eBay) and install the satellite on the 4 way unit. 
 

The extra main V1 can be used as a standalone somewhere else. 

  @safarim  hi

Thank you for the information.

Was your satellite in the 4 way location wired in an special way or straight forward 4 way wiring?

Also are all of them the diming option?

  @Maison_Berri 

I used this solution and it works well (at least it works once I finally got a set of KS230 to function properly).

https://www.reddit.com/r/TPLinkKasa/comments/zwotux/comment/j226ryp/?context=1

My problem is: of three sets, all work in manual mode but only one of the three will reliably connect to the network. So two sets being returned.

I was able to arrive at a similar solution, but I didn't experience the need for a V1 Satellite. Here is the process I used for the install. I am giving "for dummies" level of detail because I know I would've found it helpful before I started this process...

It starts by understanding the difference between where power comes into the loop in a 3-way vs a 4-way switch configuration.
3-way:
Power -> 3-way Switch -> Satellite Switch
4-way:
Power -> Satellite Switch -> 4-way Switch -> Satellite Switch
If you are like me, you will naturally try to install the Kasa Controller Switch in the 4-way switch position. This is even what Kasa support asked me to try when I asked them if this was possible. That's wrong because the controller switch needs to receive power directly from the breaker to work.
So, to get this to work, you need to set up your switches like this:
Power -> Kasa 3-way dimmer controller -> Kasa Satellite -> Dummy Switch or Kasa Satellite
To figure this out, you will need a non-touch voltage tester. I got one for $20 at the blue hardware store. I have attached an accompanying diagram and just hope I remembered correctly what I actually did.
The process:
1. Turn off breaker.
2. Mark the black wire that is connected to the black screw on your current satellites. My favorite way to do this is with a short piece of green/blue shrink wrap and a heat gun.
3. Remove ALL switches and separate wires. The box with the most wires in it is your 4-way switch the position where your Kasa satellite must go for this to function.
4. Turn breaker back on and test the marked black wires for the two satellite switches. The one that is hot is the position your Kasa controller switch will go. This is your LINE wire.
5. Turn the breaker off.
6. Install the NORMAL satellite switch back into the first position.
7. Turn breaker on.
8. Test the black wires on the 4-way switch location to figure out which one is hot. If none of them are, hit the switch you reinstalled and test again. Test them again and mark the hot wire. This is your black TRAVELER wire for the Kasa Satellite.
9. Turn the breaker off.
10. Uninstall the old satellite switch and install the Kasa controller switch in its place, wiring it as indicated in the instruction manual.
11. Install the Kasa satellite where the original 4-way switch was. The black wire you indicated was hot in the above test goes to the TRAVELER terminal furthest away from the ground and load wires. The two red wires are connected to the TRAVELER terminal closest to the ground and load. The load is the remaining black wire in this box. Ground goes to ground.
12. For the third terminal, you can either reinstall the original switch as it was before OR install a second Kasa satellite (you will have to buy a second full kit). This time the marked wire that was on the black screw will be your LOAD wire for this third switch. NOTE: Some reviewers indicate that they have had to use a satellite from a V1 kit. This was not the case for me. I could put a V2 satellite or a regular switch here and it all worked. I ended up using the original dummy switch so that I could return the second kit I purchased.
13. Turn the breaker on. If you don't immediately have flashing orange and green or you have tried to install this already and failed, press restart and press and hold reset until you get the faster flashing orange and green.
14. Set up in the app as normal. I recommend doing this step before closing everything back up.
15. Turn the breaker off.
16. Mount switches and plates.
17. Turn the breaker on.
NOTE: Even though I got the controller to work, the power delivery was a little wonky. At 100% the lights flickered. The app auto-tune also did not correctly identify the low point. I let it do its thing and changed that manually after the fact. It had to be a little higher than where the typical LED goes (this might be because this is controlling 4 interconnected higher-wattage light bulbs). Then I went in to set the max setting to about 98%, which was the highest it would go without the flicker. I also had to adjust the intermittent dimmer levels because it wasn't quite right. Not a big deal.