@lphilpot 

First thing I do is use a WIRED connection to the MODEM and test. Drops, low speed, talk to the ISP.

I've got 400Mbps down as well, and my ISP, Spectrum over-provisions by 20% (most do so there are no complaints of not delivering the proper speed) and I do get 480Mbps or a little less usually.

    lphilpot wrote
    But on WiFi I'm doing good to get half that, despite a reported 890mbs+ connect speed.

This part requires more info? First, my AC wireless connection (is AX capable) shows an 866Mbps connection for the Link Speed, so I don't know what wireless device you have?

I get about 1/2 the connect speed which is normal:

Yes, there are ways to 'improve' the speed, but I don't think what you are seeing, " intermittent but frequent drop-outs, DNS issues, etc" is something fixed by tweaking router wireless settings? However, you didn't declare it happens on ALL connections, wired and wireless?

Yes, there are things that can help the 'quality' of the connection (wireless ONLY) such as Channel used, and even the Wireless Security.

Since you never mentioned what Band you were on, nor if it is wireless only, I'm assuming it is on only wireless? If wired is OK all the time, then it probably is not the ISP's problem.

So, to get more info, is the problem on ALL SSID's? If you enabled GUEST and tested on those, is it better?

Also test by DISCONNECTING all but a single wireless device and test on that one, is it OK?

You can ALSO use a WiFi Analyser, such as Acrylic Home (Google it, can't post external links here) which is Free to check the SSID Channel and if there are many users are on it. It would also show you channels that would be less used and you could take the channel off AUTO and specify a less used one (it will show you the channel you are on).

Have you tested speeds using your ISP site (like I did above) or another site. Many will report inaccurate speeds while the ISP's test site is on their network and therefore no external delays are included which can slow you down. To reach over 300Mbps you'll need to test on the 5Ghz band. The 2.4Ghz band can't reach 400Mbs without specific network adapters that can do 450Mbps. Most will do 300Mbps or less.

As for copying, I've not had problem? Could be your Browser? However, it could be due to the Router page itself. For instance, I'm on an A20, and uses an 'overlay' to show the F/W version:

I can NOT Copy that. However, on my Advanced System Tools page for Firmware Update, I can COPY just the version data, "1.1.1 Build 20191026 rel.10453(5553)", so it could be the HTML stopping you? Probably the Java Script writing the page. If on Firefox, a CTRL+U will allow you to see the underlying HTML and it has a LOT of Java Script in it. How to bypass it, Google "can not copy part of a web page" but I've never bothered to bypass it, I'll use Windows Snipping tool to get around it (as I've done above).

  @IrvSp said:

> First thing I do is use a WIRED connection to the MODEM and test. Drops, low speed, talk to the ISP.

The speed wired to the modem is good (425 to 445mbs), but there are interruptions to services mostly evidenced as name resolution issues. I want to talk to the ISP about the interruptions, not the WiFi speed. My questions here are about optimizing the router before I call them. I don't want them blaming anything on my network.

>> But on WiFi I'm doing good to get half that, despite a reported 890mbs+ connect speed.
>
> This part requires more info? First, my AC wireless connection (is AX capable) shows an 866Mbps connection for the Link Speed, so I don't know what wireless device you have?

My bad - It's 866 here, too.

> Yes, there are ways to 'improve' the speed, but I don't think what you are seeing, " intermittent but frequent drop-outs, DNS issues, etc" is something fixed by tweaking router wireless settings? However, you didn't declare it happens on ALL connections, wired and wireless?

No, as I said they are two separate questions / issues. The ISP is doing their job speed-wise, but I'm not getting as much throughput wirelessly as I would expect. The drop-outs are consistent across all connections, all SSIDs, wired, wireless, etc. -- Across the board. That will be my ISP conversation.

> So, to get more info, is the problem on ALL SSID's? If you enabled GUEST and tested on those, is it better?

As per above, all. Guest is disabled.

> Also test by DISCONNECTING all but a single wireless device and test on that one, is it OK?

That actually happened the other day and the issues persisted. For that matter, we were seeing drop-outs via our previous router (an ASUS AC66U B1). Once again, I'm asking about router wireless configuration / optimization here, not about troubleshooting my ISP issues.

> You can ALSO use a WiFi Analyser, such as Acrylic Home (Google it, can't post external links here) which is Free to check the SSID Channel and if there are many users are on it. It would also show you channels that would be less used and you could take the channel off AUTO and specify a less used one (it will show you the channel you are on).

I had such an app installed a while back. I'll try that again. Thanks.

> Have you tested speeds using your ISP site (like I did above) or another site. Many will report inaccurate speeds while the ISP's test site is on their network and therefore no external delays are included which can slow you down. To reach over 300Mbps you'll need to test on the 5Ghz band. The 2.4Ghz band can't reach 400Mbs without specific network adapters that can do 450Mbps. Most will do 300Mbps or less.

I've tested using speedtest.net, a few other sites as well as the speedtest app both on my phone and PC. Consistent results across the board as well as I can tell. All the wireless tests were on 5GHz.
 

> As for copying, I've not had problem? Could be your Browser? However, it could be due to the Router page itself. For instance, I'm on an A20, and uses an 'overlay' to show the F/W version:

> I can NOT Copy that. However, on my Advanced System Tools page for Firmware Update, I can COPY just the version data, "1.1.1 Build 20191026 rel.10453(5553)", so it could be the HTML stopping you? Probably the Java Script writing the page. If on Firefox, a CTRL+U will allow you to see the underlying HTML and it has a LOT of Java Script in it. How to bypass it, Google "can not copy part of a web page" but I've never bothered to bypass it, I'll use Windows Snipping tool to get around it (as I've done above).

Yeah, that was just a last-minute curiosity. It's certainly possible to disable copy but if that's the case, I can see no reason for it. But it's no biggie.

Thanks.

  @lphilpot 

> I've tested using speedtest.net, a few other sites as well as the speedtest app both on my phone and PC. Consistent results across the board as well as I can tell. All the wireless tests were on 5GHz.

...forgot to mention: One of the speed tests was via an embedded speedtest.net instance on my ISP's website. All the same results.

  @lphilpot 

OK, most of my questions answered...

Happens (drop outs, etc.) direct wired to the modem, ISP's problem. Line noise or poor connectors, even possibly a modem issue.

So let's move onto the signal issue, specifically speed.

Since you are on 5Ghz, it means you have at least 802.11 N Speed, maybe AC or AX devices even.

Now I'll assume you don't know the wireless speed you can get on a device? Connection speed doesn't relate completely to receive speed. Each of the 802.11 devices have a MAX. speed, but there are many factors determining the top speed you can get.

This site, Duckwear .  com and take the first link, Wi-Fi 4/5/6/6E (802.11 n/ac/ax, can overload you with data and details, but if you understand the terms, it is a good read...

Still, you might be able to improve your wifi speed.

You show you have V2 of the A2300, but the Support site only shows V1? Your F/W that you listed is for a C2300? Same manual ir seems???

Look at the Manual for suggestions, https://www.tp-link.com/us/user-guides/Archer-C2300&A2300_V1/chapter-13-customize-your-network-settings#ug-sub-title-7https://www.tp-link.com/us/user-guides/Archer-C2300&A2300_V1/chapter-13-customize-your-network-settings#ug-sub-title-7 and 'play' with some of the wireless settings.

First thing I'd do is not use Security at all? Test and see if you had the wrong one set. Some devices will be slower if you use the wrong one (Auto can cause this to happen, use none for the test).

You never provided the device not the speed it was getting? I've got a few iPads here, and the older V2 and V3 could never get a good N Speed 300Mbps down. Newer ones connect faster, and some Apple devices now have AX speed capability like my iPhone 12.

With the link to the manual, what you see on the Network Analyzer, and some 'tweaking' of settings you should be able to improve the speed. Don't forget, distance from the router, and what is between the device and router can impact speed you can get.

> You show you have V2 of the A2300, but the Support site only shows V1? Your F/W that you listed is for a C2300? Same manual ir seems???

That was a typo. It's an Archer AC2300 (C2300), V2.

> Look at the Manual for suggestions, https://www.tp-link.com/us/user-guides/Archer-C2300&A2300_V1/chapter-13-customize-your-network-settings#ug-sub-title-7https://www.tp-link.com/us/user-guides/Archer-C2300&A2300_V1/chapter-13-customize-your-network-settings#ug-sub-title-7 and 'play' with some of the wireless settings.

Got it.I was looking for a more detailed manual and hadn't located that yet. Thanks.

> First thing I'd do is not use Security at all? Test and see if you had the wrong one set. Some devices will be slower if you use the wrong one (Auto can cause this to happen, use none for the test).

Already confirmed we're good in that regard. None of the tested devices have security related issues AFAICT.

> You never provided the device not the speed it was getting? I've got a few iPads here, and the older V2 and V3 could never get a good N Speed 300Mbps down. Newer ones connect faster, and some Apple devices now have AX speed capability like my iPhone 12.

See the image below for two of several (I've included results from my previous router for comparison). Both came from the speedtest.net app, one on Android 12 and the other on Windows 11. The Pixel 4a is a year old, the laptop is three months old. Also an HP AIO desktop that's a ~year old, a ~year-old iMac Pro & iPad, a ~4 year-old Samsung TabA (all on wireless). But I don't have stats I can retrieve on the others.

I've highlighted the speeds within typically promised spec margins (10%) of our 400 mbs plan. Note the phone today did 430, but then two minutes later 115.

> With the link to the manual, what you see on the Network Analyzer, and some 'tweaking' of settings you should be able to improve the speed. Don't forget, distance from the router, and what is between the device and router can impact speed you can get.

Yep, most of my phone testing was within (literaly) unobstructed inches of the router. Of course, the 430mbs today was out the carport, probably 50' away. Go figure. I'll take a look at all this and ask if I have further questions. Thanks.

  @lphilpot 

Thanks for those screen captures.

Personally, I don't see how you can think the problem is with EITHER router?

Get a Network Analyzer, on the phone, or use Acrylic if the Laptop also has wireless.

Looking at the results of BOTH routers, I'd call them the SAME.... completely unreliable SSID signal.

There is either some EXTERNAL interference, or you devices are damaged? Wired should be ROCK SOLID, the same all the time... 2 routers varying greatly, either the ISP is not giving you SOLID connection, or you might have h/w problems. This could NOT be the router though, as one of them should have been a solid same connection, and I doubt you'd have 2 bad ones... and 'interference' in general, which can hit wireless will not change wired speeds.

So, you are left with a possible CABLE problem. Since wireless varies greatly, I'd focus on the MODEM or the cable from it to the Router.

You said it was 'good' when direct connected to the Modem? If so, did you connect the modem to the laptop using the modem cable, or the laptop cable? I'm leaning to a bad modem to router cable....

> Personally, I don't see how you can think the problem is with EITHER router?

Well there's something different between the ASUS and TP-Link, given the immediate return to full wired speed when I changed to the TP-Link. Configuration? Some default? Intermittent hardware issue with the ASUS? Dunno, but wired speeds have pretty consistently been where they should be.

> Wired should be ROCK SOLID, the same all the time...

Agreed, but you don't know my ISP (Suddenlink)    I'm delighted with 80% success, all things considered. There are others in my neighborhood with ISP-related issues that have so far been unfixed. Their commercial services aren't bad, but home is spotty at least where I live. That may well be some dodgy hardware in my part of their network, but getting that tracked down and fixed...

> I'd focus on the MODEM or the cable from it to the Router.

As mentioned before, I've not ruled out the modem (which came from my ISP) nor anything upstream from the router. I'm just wanting to make sure my router in optimally configured before going back to my ISP.
 

> You said it was 'good' when direct connected to the Modem? If so, did you connect the modem to the laptop using the modem cable, or the laptop cable?

Both cables, as well as a brand new third cable ...all were reasonably current, not old "CAT-poop" cables. Consistent all ways.

  @lphilpot 

lphilpot wrote

 

> I'd focus on the MODEM or the cable from it to the Router.

 

As mentioned before, I've not ruled out the modem (which came from my ISP) nor anything upstream from the router. I'm just wanting to make sure my router in optimally configured before going back to my ISP.

 

 

What I've seen of the posted speeds from both routers is basically the same with a small sample size. Quite possible there was nothing wrong with the old router either?

If you can't get a consistent signal from the modem, no router in the world will do better than what comes in.

Now what you've not posted is a similar chart from the modem direct to the Laptop. If it shows consistent 400+Mbps, then there is something else going on?

You never have shown a capture both wired and wireless at the SAME time... I suspect you'd get similar numbers if you did that?

On 3/26 @ 16:40, you did have both on the old router, wireless 190, wired 218, fairly close to each other. Yes, there is one on 4/2, at 15:03/4 that does show a significant difference, but I also see that on the old router, like on 3/26, 17:30/31.... 97/226Mbps.

If it (the Internet Speed) differs that much in literally seconds, you don't know who is at fault until you can gets a constant source.

As for the Router being 'optimized', I say "yes it is". Why? Because you CAN get MAX. speed wireless on it.

What I think is 'tainting' you thoughts is that the new TP-Link right now is perfoming better (more full wireless speed).

One thing, and I'll assume you have done this, it the correct proceedure for powering up modem and router (modem and PC) when changing the connection of the 2 devices.

ALWAYS power of every device that connects to each other. Power up the MODEM first and WAIT for it to come fully up. Then the device you wish to connect to it, a router or a PC, and once those are fully up, then do the Internet test. Modems tend to 'know' who they were connected to if you do not power them off, and that can/will cause some signal problems (not usually like what you are seeing, but a consistent low signal, not random values that change).

Most ISP's will bring some h/w to test with, so I'd contact them. Only caveat I can think of, IF and only IF when you connect the modem direct to the PC and ALWAYS get 430Mbps or so, then you clearly have a home problem. In that case, I be suspect of the A/C, either has power spikes or is very noisy. Line (power) fluctuations can cause a router to 'work' differently at times. If that is the case, a power line filter or even a UPS (Uninteruptible Power Supply) would also work.

Me, I do not suspect either router as the cause. No setting change will/can improve it either I feel.

Try contacting TP-Link Support I guess, see if they think differently?