FWIW the update seems to have sorted my problem, my bulbs have stay connected since the were updated.

That little utility checks the bulb type and firmware, then updates the bulb if it needs it. I know that as when I tried to update my HS200 it reported it was already at the right level. My other devices were all updated properly and they're all of different types.

The same subnet works well for TCP but UDP is different. Whether it's going to work depends on how the network and what TP Link is doing in that little application. My guess would be they didn't test it with a mesh network. I'd probably try different things depending on effort - see if I could force the PC and devices onto the same network device, reset a bulb and try linking the PC directly to the bulb AP and update one at a time, use an old router and connect everything to it for the update. Perhaps an old router could be pressed into service as an access point, maybe dedicated to the TP Links? You'd need a separate SSID to make that work, though you could use the same subnet.

I don't recall if I was forced to do firmware upgrades individually, but seeing as how I wrote something down about "Select a device", I probably ran into the same issues with not being able to do them all with one button push. I do recall not getting some devices on the first try (because it left me with a sense of bone-chilling fear of having "bricked" devices, but this was not the case).

For my setup, I got mine working using the same fundamental (almost) software as Google WiFI points with only my one OnHub device (OnHub and Google Wifi are supposed to be similar enough that you can interchange them on a network).... but I note that I was only using the one OnHub device in my setup.

One idea to replicate my success might be to power down all but the primary GoogleWiFi point, so the meshing is not a factor.

If the mesh is required for backhaul (say, for a lightbulb waaaay on the other side of a building), you could temporarily move the lightbulb/outlet/etc. to a fixture/socket closer to the Wifi point, or temporarily run a long ethernet cable from your modem, to put a primary closer WiFi point to a lightbulb/outlet (if, for example, it's way up high or otherwise inaccessable...)

So:
Wall---->Primary Wifi---->Secondary Wifi---->Lightbulb/Outlet

Becomes:
Wall---->Primary Wifi----->Lightbulb/Outlet

Or
Wall---------------------->Primary Wifi----->Lightbulb/Outlet


Also, to follow up, last night, I had another problem with Alexa/Echo connecting (in this case, with my LB130), so I had to use Kasa to turn off a light.

It was the first time it happened to me since I updated the firmware... so while the problem for me is greatly, greatly, diminished (YAY! ) from once every 2-3 days, to once a month, it's still happening (Yay?).

I just bought a UK version of the LB110 in the UK off Amazon and have had similar connectivity issues. Worse in fact - it only stays connected for a few minutes and then needs a reset. Firmware is currently 1.2.1

I got on the webchat and was given a link to the update tool and firmware of 1.2.3 Rel. 100146 but it says device unsupported so now assuming that the UK (240V) version requires a different firmware version.

If anyone finds a UK version of the firmware please post - I shall do like wise should TP-Link respond to my request.

as a side issue, I was poking around looking at the code in the firmware and see the following;


"



Kimi Raikkonen
112


Juan Pablo Montoya
60


"

Seems very odd for an unrelated smart device???

Sp!ke wrote

I just bought a UK version of the LB110 in the UK off Amazon and have had similar connectivity issues. Worse in fact - it only stays connected for a few minutes and then needs a reset. Firmware is currently 1.2.1

I got on the webchat and was given a link to the update tool and firmware of 1.2.3 Rel. 100146 but it says device unsupported so now assuming that the UK (240V) version requires a different firmware version.

If anyone finds a UK version of the firmware please post - I shall do like wise should TP-Link respond to my request.

as a side issue, I was poking around looking at the code in the firmware and see the following;


"



Kimi Raikkonen
112


Juan Pablo Montoya
60


"

Seems very odd for an unrelated smart device???

A likely source seems to be something like https://github.com/lxfontes/ezxml/search?utf8=✓&q=Juan , or the related http://stackoverflow.com/questions/31265086/ezxml-xml-parsing-api , It's coming from using the the ezxml library, which uses those strings for their demo code... some of that probably got left in by accident/oversight.

Spoke too soon on the stability issue,while the firmware update seems to have helped my other TP Link devices, my LB130 continues to fall of the network daily. I checked the wifi log on the router and it looks like the LB130 just stops responding to authentication challenges and likely everything else it's sent. The router takes it offline and reports "no route to host" until I power cycle the bulb.

I have some suggestions. You say the bulb falls off daily. Coincidentally, that is the default DHCP lease time on my router (TP-Link C-3150). Perhaps the failure occurs when the "lease" is being renewed.
I have no problems on my two bulbs (120 and 130). That may be because I have RESERVED the addresses for my bulbs and the lease time is "Permanent".

So, my suggestion is trying assigning your bulbs to a reserved IP address and see if that helps.

For the Archer C3150, that is on the Advanced > Network > DHCP Server page near the bottom. It may be elsewhere on your server.

If it works - shout it out.

Thanks for the suggestions. I've got 5 TP link devices - HS100, HS110, HS200, LB120 and LB130. The HS's have ad no problem staying connected since they've been installed. The LB120 rarely disconnects but has a few times, while the LB130 will drop daily and even a few times per day. Both bulbs are at the same firmware level.

After some experimenting I'm pretty sure there's at least a hardware problem and perhaps a firmware problem with the LB130 bulb.

The LB130 would stop responding within 2 hours when it's in the fixture furthest from my router while the LB120 shows no problems. Swapping the two (the original LB120's fixture is closer to the router) and the LB130 will only fail about once per day while the LB120 will still run in that further fixture quite happily.

When the LB130 drops offline it appears to stop responding to the router's wifi authentication requests (based on my router log). A restart of the bulb (power cycle) or a restart of the router will bring the bulb back online.

I'm hoping the TP Link engineers will notice this report to double check (and perhaps comment!) whether there's a firmware problem causing the bulb to crash freeze if the wifi signal is marginal.

Unfortunately I'm not able to exchange the LB130 to figure out if it's just that bulb or all of them.

I have found a difference in behavior between Android and IOS kasa Apps in terms of stability with IOS not only being more stable but also being able to natively perform a firmware update to 1.2.3 unlike the Android Kasa App.

Interested to know what flavour others in this thread have to confirm or spanner throw my own experience.

FWIW, 1.2.3 doesnt improve matters with Android but with IOS it seems to maintain the connection better albeit with a 5-10 second delay when making changes (as if it is using remote rather than local control).

You are correct on the Android version not providing upgrade capability. But even worse - it indicates it does and says you do not need any. This NEEDS TO BE FIXED.
I also do not trust the data displayed in the Energy Usage tab. For example, I just woke up, yet it says one of my bulbs has been on for 2.62 hours and the other for 0 hours. Not true at all.
I do not use the KASA very much since I have transitioned to SmartThings control using a bridge and custom code.

Sp!ke wrote

FWIW, 1.2.3 doesnt improve matters with Android but with IOS it seems to maintain the connection better albeit with a 5-10 second delay when making changes (as if it is using remote rather than local control).

I'm not sure we're all talking about the same issue. The issue in this thread is that bulbs (and now once an HS200) drop from the wifi network and cannot reconnect unless they are power cycled. This is clearly a hardware or firmware issue, the app behaviour or version will have nothing to do with it.

Like Dave, I do not use the kasa app for anything other than setting up the devices. My own app (AutomationManager) monitors the devices and will report if any are offline. I'm suspect it's similar in SmartThings which I understand is quite good too.. (Though unless you already have SmartThings it seems odd to purchase a hub to get hubless devices like TP Link's to work, as is trading one cloud (China based TP-Links) for another (Korean based Samsung's)). And as with the other apps, if the TP Link device has dropped off of wifi nothing - not Kasa, AutomationManager, nor SmartThings - can make it work until it's back.

What I have found is a stronger wifi signal - moving them closer to the router - helps them stay connected for longer. Days vs hours in my case. It varies by device (unsurprising as small manufacturing differences will have an effect). But it is still a problem - lighting must always be reliable.